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Pros &
Cons
- Pro: Tiny
pixels & resolving power
The D2X sensor's
tiny pixels have a pitch (physical size) of just
5.5 microns (1 micron = 1/1000 of a millimeter).
That comes out to about 180 pixels per
millimeter, which translates into 90 line pairs
per millimeter of resolving power. Line pairs
per millimeter (Lp/mm) are the optics industry's
standard measurement for defining the resolving
potential of camera lenses, film, digital
sensors, microscopes, binoculars, & the
like.
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Above:
Typical Lp/mm resolution test
pattern
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Line pairs
consist of groups of alternating black
& white lines, the
black-white-black-white pattern makes the
individual lines absolutely distinct. The
thinner the lines, the more line pairs
there are per millimeter. The number of
line pairs per millimeter that can be
distinctly resolved is what defines the
ability of a device to capture or record
fine details.
A sensor
that can resolve more Lp/mm can record
finer details than a sensor that resolves
fewer Lp/mm. The same goes for lenses, a
lens that resolves more Lp/mm can capture
finer details than a lens that resolves
fewer Lp/mm.
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Compare
the resolving power of the D2X's high density 90
Lp/mm sensor with other DSLR sensors. The D2X
leads the pack by a significant margin.
- Nikon
D2X - 90 Lp/mm
- Canon
20D & Rebel XT - 78
Lp/mm
- Olympus
E1 - 74 Lp/mm
- Canon
1Ds Mk II - 69 Lp/mm
- Canon
Digital Rebel - 68 Lp/mm
- Nikon
D50, D70, D70s, D100 - 63
Lp/mm
- Kodak
DCS 14n, DCS SLR/n, DCS SLR/c - 63
Lp/mm
- Nikon
D1X - 84 Lp/mm horizontal, 42 Lp/mm
vertical (63 Lp/mm
averaged)
- Canon
5D, 1D Mk II, 1D Mk II N - 61
Lp/mm
- Kodak
DCS 560, 660, 760 - 56
Lp/mm
- Nikon
D2H & D2Hs - 52
Lp/mm
- Nikon
D1 & D1H - 42 Lp/mm
- Kodak
DCS 520, 620, 620x - 39
Lp/mm
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It has been
calculated that most (including the most
expensive) lenses in real-world shooting
conditions actually resolve details in the 50-80
Lp/mm range. Some specialty lenses can do better
(certain prime & macro lenses in certain
conditions), cheap lenses usually do
worse.
What this all
means in a practical sense is that with 90 Lp/mm
of optical resolving power, the D2X's sensor has
the capability to resolve fine image details
better than most cameras and most lenses under
most shooting conditions.
Click on the
Google Search button below to learn more about
the relationships between line pairs, lenses,
cameras, and sensors.
- Pro: CMOS
sensor
A CMOS sensor
uses less electric power than a CCD sensor. This
has a couple of major benefits. First, longer
battery life. Second, less static buildup, which
means less dirt & dust attracted to the
sensor's cover glass surface. Many experienced
D2X users report that they seldom or never need
to clean their camera's sensor.
- Pro: High
quality print output
Studies have
shown that at even at a closeup viewing distance
of just 12 inches, the human eye struggles to
discern details in a printed picture finer than
about 150 line pairs per inch. Details in excess
of 150 lp/pi tend to blur or blend together.
150 line pairs
per inch of visual print acuity translates into
300 pixels per inch (ppi) of printer output
resolution. Not coincidentally, 300 ppi is
generally considered to be the ideal output
setting for high quality prints. Most fine
quality glossy magazines typically print
photographs at 300 ppi.
At 300 ppi print
resolution, the D2X produces 14.3 x 9.5 inch
prints without resizing or interpolation. Larger
prints interpolate and retain their quality
elegantly. And smaller prints smack with
detail.
Large or small,
if fine quality prints are important, this is
the camera to have.
- Con: Dealing
with big image files
I prefer to
shoot combined strictly Raw or Raw + Jpeg in my
cameras. Simple math showed me that if I took a
19.5 megabyte uncompressed D2X Raw file and
added a 7 to 8 megabyte Jpeg large / fine
companion file, I was looking at only getting
about 36 pictures on a 1 gig memory card. That
meant frequent card changes, a lot of memory
cards, and a lot of sitting time at my computer
uploading images card by card after a typical
day of shooting.
And then there
was the concern about limited hard drive space
and possibly too-slow image processing speeds on
my 1 Ghz Pentium III computer equipped with a
gig & a half of ram. Plus the problem of
archiving those big files with my CD burner, 700
megabytes (or less) at a time. That would only
be 25 Raw + Jpeg picture sets on a CD. That
meant even more sitting time at my
computer.
Would I need to
upgrade all my gear to be able to shoot Raw
files? Multi-gig memory cards, a new motherboard
with the fastest processor available, more ram
and a double layer DVD burner for archiving? I
could see how that might stretch the true cost
of owning the camera twofold or more.
I was concerned
that I might have to shoot strictly Jpegs unless
I did a computer upgrade. That didn't sound too
bad, I'd read many reports that the D2X's
straight Jpegs (Large/Fine) were excellent. Most
of those reports came from people who (like me)
preferred to shoot Raw + Jpeg or Raw only, but
didn't want to deal with the big 19.5 megabyte
Raw files. They were shooting Large/Fine Jpegs
(around 7 to 8 megabytes) and seemed to be
pleased with the results. I rationalized that if
I needed to, I might be satisfied with shooting
just Jpegs, too.
But I dreaded
the thought of dealing with exposure or white
balance issues if I limited my shooting to Jpegs
... Raw will definitely spoil you in those
areas. So I decided to use Compressed Raw + Jpeg
and try to work through my equipment
limitations.
It turned out
that Compressed Raw files (~11 megabytes)
work great. In actual use the D2X's Compressed
Raw files open in Nikon Capture reasonably fast
and transfer from Capture to Adobe Photoshop
with little delay. That made shooting Raw fun
again. By shooting Compressed Raw + Jpeg small
combos, I get about 85 picture sets (Raw + Jpeg)
on a one gig card & about 170 on a two gig
card.
- Con: Some
say that the D2X's tiny pixels make it more
sensitive to camera shake
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How
could the D2X's smaller pixels make
it more sensitive to camera shake
than cameras with larger
pixels?
Look
at these diagrams and you'll see
that the same amount of movement
more than doubles the amount of
pixels that are influenced by camera
shake when comparing the D2X to a
typical six megapixel
camera.
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I've always had a pretty steady shooting hand,
and haven't run into much of a problem with
this. There have been some pictures I've taken,
however, that at first glance looked a bit soft
& out of focus, but on closer inspection
turned out to be slightly motion blurred. (It's
hard to tell the difference between sharply
focused pictures with a soft /slight motion blur
and pictures that are truly slightly out of
focus.)
To overcome the
problem, some D2X shooters double the
traditional shutter speed rule of thumb (a
minimum of 1/ lens focal length shutter speed).
In other words, if you're shooting at a 200mm
focal length and the old rule of thumb equaled
1/200th of a second, do what's necessary to
double the shutter speed to 1/400th in order to
overcome the greater camera shake & motion
blur sensitivity of the D2X's smaller pixels.
You can easily control this by observing the
shutter speed in your viewfinder and making the
necessary adjustments to Vari-Program, Aperture
or ISO settings to increase shutter speeds, or
by shooting Shutter Priority and presetting the
shutter speed in accordance with your focal
length.
At the very
least, shoot smart, not sloppy. Pay attention to
the shooting data in your viewfinder, be aware
of your shutter speeds. Hold a steady hand,
brace your camera when you can. (You should be
doing these things anyway.)
- Con: Tiny
pixels & diffraction limits
The smaller the
pixels, the more critical aperture settings
become.
Contrary to
popular belief, smaller lens apertures (with
their greater depth of field) don't necessarily
result in sharper pictures. When the negative
effects of aperture diffraction begin to
outweigh the positive effects of increased depth
of field, sharpness falls off and fuzziness sets
in. Smaller apertures also cause slower shutter
speeds, often requiring higher ISO settings to
make a shot.
Understanding
how aperture diffraction works and relating how
diffraction applies to the small pixels of the
D2X will help you to take sharper pictures.
Click
here for the full
article.
(It applies to other cameras as
well.)
- Con: Size
& weight
The D2X is big
and heavy. With its built-in vertical grip and
rugged construction, the D2X is bulky,
conspicuous, and a burden to carry. I prefer the
smaller size & lightweight qualities of
cameras like the Fuji S1 & S2 Pro, the Canon
D5, 10D & 20D, and the Nikon D50, D70 &
D100 without a vertical grip.
I wish Nikon
offered a version of the D2X without a vertical
grip. I'll bet it would outsell the current dual
grip version. They could have called it
the D2X, and the D2X with a vertical grip
could be called the D2Xv (?). What the
heck, most people I know seldom or never use the
vertical grip & controls anyway. In fact, a
lot of people (myself included) lock out the
vertical shutter release button to prevent
accidental autofocus activation.
Well
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I decided
that the D2X was a keeper. The high Lp/mm
resolution of the D2X's sensor is what
really sold me. It's nice to know that my
camera can outperform my lenses. As far as
support gear is concerned, I'll make the
camera work for me with the equipment I
have on hand. I figure that if I really
need to, I'll buy some bigger memory cards
& upgrade my computer later.
And I'll just
deal with the size & weight. The
features & image quality are worth it.
The D2X has the best color reproduction
and takes the sharpest full resolution
pictures of any camera I've ever
used.
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.jpg)
Nikon
D2X closeup daylight fill flash
snapshot taken under cloudy,
overcast skies. ISO 100,
Programmed Auto Exposure, Auto
White Balance, Nikon SB-800
speedlight with its included
diffuser dome to soften the
flash, Nikon 17-55 mm f/2.8 zoom
lens. Compressed Raw format
processed with Nikon Capture
software.
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My preferred
camera settings
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Image
Quality
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Raw (NEF)
plus small (S) sized normal quality jpegs.
The NEF
files are digital 'negatives', critical
corrections and adjustments to white
balance, exposure, sharpening, tone, color
space, and much more can easily be done
after the fact on your computer using
compatible Raw software such as Adobe
Photoshop, Nikon Capture 4, and others. I
use the Small / Normal quality Jpegs for
image previews & slide
shows.
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Raw
Compression
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On.
Compressed Raw has no visual loss of image
quality with about 60% of the file
size.
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White
Balance
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Auto.
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Sensitivity
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Preset to
ISO 200 as my default setting. I like the
inherently faster shutter speeds that ISO
200 produces for everyday photography.
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Auto
ISO
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Off
unless shooting Shutter Priority. Auto ISO
will not work effectively in Programmed
Auto Exposure or Aperture Priority
shooting. It is excellent if shooting in
Shutter Priority mode.
Here's how
Auto ISO works:
- While
shooting in Shutter Priority mode, Auto
ISO regulates exposure by varying the
aperture. Darker scenes will open the
aperture, brighter scenes will close
the aperture. Auto ISO can extend the
exposure in darker scenes by up to 3
full stops.
In darker scenes, if a wide open
aperture calls for more light, the Auto
ISO system will automatically adjust
the ISO upward between 100 & 800
until the increased sensitivity just
breaks the correct exposure
threshold.
If the pictures are underexposed at ISO
800, the shutter speed will need to be
reduced. (Check your histograms for
exposure.)
In brighter scenes, the ISO will remain
at 100 and the exposure will be
regulated by the aperture.
Shooting Auto ISO / Shutter Priority
gives you up to 11 (eleven) full stops
of useful automatic dynamic exposure
range at a single preset shutter speed
on an f/2.8 lens (f/22, f/16, f/11,
f/8, f/5.6, f/4, f/2.8, ISO 100, ISO
200, ISO 400, and ISO 800).*
*Assuming
a maximum aperture of f/22. I don't
like to shoot tighter than f/11 because
of image quality issues.
Note: Auto
ISO does not work in High 1 (ISO 1600) or
High 2 (ISO 3200) settings.
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Image
Sharpening
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In-camera
set on Medium High. This gives me the most
accurate LCD preview of what a well
processed finished image will be. And the
in-camera Jpegs look excellent with this
sharpening setting while I view them on my
computer.
I find
that near-ideal image sharpeness is
attained by processing a Raw image in
Nikon Capture. Reset sharpening to None in
Advanced Raw and applying Capture's
Unsharp Mask at 50, 5, 4.
If
additional sharpening is necessary, try
adding Unsharp Mask set at 100, 0.3, 6 in
Adobe Photoshop.
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Tone
Compensation
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Low. Low
tone produces the maximum highlight &
shadow details. Add contrast as you like
after the fact in Nikon Capture or Adobe
Photoshop.
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Color
Space
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Mode I
(sRGB). I believe that sRGB Mode 1
produces the most realistic
colors.
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Hue
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0
(default)
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Exposure
Compensation
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None.
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Custom
Setting a4
Focus Tracking
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Focus
Tracking with Lock "Off". Set to "off",
the camera will react to focus changes
more responsively.
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Custom
Setting d4
File Number Sequence
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File
Number Sequence "On". Acts as an odometer
for the total number of pictures you've
taken with your camera and prevents the
possibility of overwriting an existing
picture in your computer files that might
have the same file number.
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Custom
Setting e1
Flash Synch Speed
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Flash
Synch Speed 1/250 (FP auto). This setting
will enable a Nikon SB-800AF Speedlight to
synch all the way up to the D2H's maximum
1/8000 shutter speed.
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Custom
Setting f5
Command Dial Settings
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Once
you're inside Custom Setting f 5, go to
"Menus & Playback" and choose "On".
This enables menu selections and image
playback to the Command and Sub Command
dials in addition to the
Multi-Selector rocker switch. Using the
Command & Sub Command dials is
especially fast & easy while scrolling
through the pictures you've taken. Now you
can just roll the main Command Dial to
scroll through the pictures, and roll the
Sub Command Dial to view the histogram,
highlights, & shooting
data.
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Other
Nikon D2X Reviews / Resources
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